Africa: Day 5 (Okavango Delta, Botswana)

Cool and rainy start to the day meant rain jackets and tarps covering our day packs on the truck that took us about 90 minutes into the Okavango Delta.

We arrived at base camp to meet our polers and head out on our next avenue of transportation…mokoros. 2 to a boat, it was around another 90-minutes via water to our campsite for the night. Mokoros are long canoe-like boats, originally made with a trunk from an African sausage tree, now made primarily with fiberglass, and are always navigated by a poler who stands on the very back of the boat and propels/guides the boat using a 10-12 foot pole made out of local wood.

Loaded up our tents, mattresses, sleeping bags and day packs into the mokoros, passed a few elephant and hippos on the way out of the ‘harbor’ and we were on our way. The rain had stopped, but the cloud cover remained and the noise of the gentle paddling and the grasses were floating over the only thing we could hear. I’m not sure that I’ve ever done anything so relaxing. Jerry, our poler, also happened to be the main guide and he educated us on all the various birds, flowers and small animals that we passed on the way. He’s from Maun and is the oldest of 8 kids, 5 brothers and 2 sisters. They all live at home in the village with mom & grandma and he’s been working as a poler, hosting visitors and locals alike, for trips deep into the Delta. Currently licenses for ‘recreation’, he’s working on his professional license; a written exam, as well as a practical exam conducted by the Wildlife Conservation entity. Not only did he get us to our camp peacefully and safely, he taught us how to make necklaces out of the water lilly flowers that pop up throughout the river.

The group all unloaded the boats alongside our 3 guides and 6 additional polers and worked together to set up camp. Less than 100 feet from the waters edge, it was the perfect place to pitch a tent, and of course, heavily wooded areas yield well for bush toilets.

Had a few hours before we began our bush walk so everyone had a chance to relax - go for a swim in the river, crack a few beers and chit-chat, I opted for my book by the fire while Chris, our CEO, prepared lunch for us - fresh tuna sandwiches and salad (his warm up for dinner, as he said).

Split into 3 groups and got our instruction for how to follow our guide (in a line), how to talk (basically don’) and what to do if confronted unexpectedly by an animal. At this point, we had seen these animals from a boat, a safari jeep, an airplane…but this would be our first time on foot. For 2 hours, we were guided through the Delta. It is absolutely majestic crossing paths with a journey of giraffes from the ground-level…not to mention stalked by a wildabeast, and we finally got to see a dazzle of zebra! The most invigorating find was the 12 hippos that we came across as we walked along the waters edge. They were very much aware we were encroaching on their space and at one point, the ‘head male’ was sent to let us know he meant business. After disappearing under the water, he reappeared just feet from the edge with teeth bared and a loud grunt. Hippos, as we’ve learned, are good about pulling their bodies far out of the water to show their size to predators, but they will not get out of the water to chase you on land (thank goodness).

We returned to camp and broke out the wine and cocktails. The polers had the fire going strong and Chris delivered on his promise of an incredible home-cooked meal; for starters, butternut squash and sweet potato soup, followed by the most delicious chicken curry over rice and vegetables. Um, what? Camp with me and you’re getting hot dogs and smores…this was an absolutely treat. If this is his ‘camping cooking,’ I can only imagine what it’s like at home.

Once the plates had all been cleaned, the fire doubled in size and our hosts broke into their local song and dance. The last song was the Zebra song, coined that to signal the welcomed integration of all colors and nationalities, and we all circled up to sing and pay our respects to Africa, Botswana, polers, dinner, elephants…and so many others. By far the most powerful moment of the trip.

Lighthearted games and storytelling followed and a few hours after the sun went down, we all snuggled into our tents. The cool air. Fire burning just outside. Nothing but the chatter of tree frogs and of course, hippos, this will no doubt be a day I’ll never forget.